Alexander Huber born on 30 December, 1968 in Trostberg, Bavaria is a renowned German physicist, climber and mountaineer. He is the brother of another famous climber, Thomas Huber. Both the brothers, in their childhood were taken to the mountain by their father, since he himself was also a celebrated climber. From very tender age, Alexander nurtured the interest of extreme alpine climbing.
Since 1992, Alexander Huber is a state-certified mountain and skiing guide. He first studied physics, and then turned into a full-time professional mountaineer in 1997 and is now acknowledged as one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers. His tremendous passion for climbing, took him to Valais at the age of 11, when he stood on his first four-thousander. After a number of trips to the Western Alps and a first apprenticeship with his father, Alexander was taken by his brother on several tours. The two brothers soon formed a powerful rope duo in sport climbing as well as in Alpine rock climbing. Alexander made his first international breakthrough with the first redpointing of the world-renowned Salathe route up El Captain in the Yosemite Valley. He has also ascended the West face of Latok II. With this climbing, Alexander explores a new dimension in mountaineering. His team spends a fortnight on the granite wall and last few days at altitudes above 7000 m (22,966 ft).
Alexander is especially known for his free solo climbs, which earned him world recognition, even in the non-climbing world: free climbing at minus 15 degree C, of the Drei Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Alexander’s free solo expedition of the Kommunist sport route, as well as some other important Alpine routes such as the Direttissima Hasse-Brandler and the Schweizer Führe, show his self- control and high ability. One of his sport climbing performance dates back to 1996. He ascended the Open Air route and achieved the first 9a in the history of climbing.
Some other notable expeditions of Alexander are:
- 2000: First Ascent of Golden Gate
- 2001: First Ascent of Bellavista
- 2002: Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima
- 2003: First Redpoint Ascent of Free Zodiac
- 2005: First Redpoint Ascent of Voie Petite
- 2006: First Ascent of Golden Eagle
- 2007: First Ascent of Pan Aroma
- 2008: First Ascent of the Westface
- 2008: First Free Solo Ascent of Grand Capucin
Alexander has also planned and led some expeditions to Pakistan and Patagonia.